Geology museums of mainland Europe: The museum national d’Histoire naturelle’s Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie, Paris
Jon Trevelyan (UK)
The origins of the collection at the Museum national d’Histoire naturelle’s Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie in Paris date back surprisingly far. In 1625, under Louis XIII, minerals thought to have medicinal virtues were deposited in the ‘droguier du roi’ (royal drug cabinet) associated with the then Jardin royal des plantes médicinales. Later, in 1745, under the influence of figures like Georges Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon and Louis Jean Marie Daubenton, the Cabinet d’Histoire Naturelle opened, and the mineral/geological collections began being publicly exhibited.
The building you visit today is a nineteenth-century neoclassical structure. Construction begun in 1833 following architect Charles Rohault de Fleury’s plans, and the building (or at least the major part of it) was inaugurated between 1837 and 1841. The building is noteworthy as it is described as the first building in France intended to be a museum. More recently, after renovations (notably, a major revamp around 2014 for the ‘Trésors de la Terre’ exhibition), the gallery was relaunched with updated displays.
The building is long (187m) and neoclassical, with a central nave (the ‘Grande nef’) and lateral wings. The displays are relatively compact: 600 pieces are on display in the main exhibition at any time (out of much larger holdings). From visitor reviews, it seems that the lighting and aesthetic presentation often get praise.
If you’re expecting a very interactive or modern hands-on museum experience, you might find the presentation somewhat traditional: large showcases, great specimens, but perhaps fewer interactive modules than some newer science museums.
For someone whose interest is strictly geology and/or mineralogy, the visit is great. But if you’re looking for broad natural history (fossils, evolution and so on), you may want to combine it with other galleries in the Muséum complex, for example, the Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie Comparée.
The gallery is arranged with eight thematic alcoves, dealing with aspects of mineralogy (identification, crystallography etc). And there are some particularly dazzling items: rare jewels/minerals (for instance a blue diamond of Louis XIV and nuggets from the gold rush (see below for both).
Giant crystals
The collection is described as among the oldest and the most prestigious in the world for minerals, rocks and meteorites. One of the big draws is the giant crystals. In the ‘Trésors de la Terre’ exhibition, you’ll find more than 20 plus large crystals in the central space, and around 60 more pieces which may be some of the best museum holdings of such in the world.
Indeed, it’s rare to see such massive single crystals in a museum context. They reveal how minerals can grow in very stable environments over long periods and it is worth, if possible, walking around them to see them from several angles as the light and reflection often makes a big difference to how they look.
There are also large geodes containing thousands of small amethyst crystals (Figs. 12 and 13).
These aren’t just show-pieces. The colour, crystalline structure and context offer a window into mineral formation and the variety of geological environments. Bring a camera (without flash or with a setting that avoids reflections) as these pieces photograph well.
Outside, at the entrance to the museum, are two blocks of smoky black quartz, one of which (Fig. 16) weighs four tonnes and is 10m in diameter, from Vitória da Conquista in Brazil (Figs. 16 and 17). The black colour is the effect of radiation from radioactive minerals.
However, not all the quartz specimens are huge. There are several that have other remarkable qualities (Figs. 18 and 19).
Meteorite specimens
Meteorites and other ‘space rocks’ feature (Fig. 20). The collection highlights not just terrestrial geology but also materials that help tell the story of the Earth and the solar system, which link you to the solar-system level, not just Earth geology. There is one specifically to look out for – the Météorite de l’Aigle, which is listed as a ‘spécimen remarquable’.
Fossils
Of particular interest (to me) are the ammonite and some belemnites that seem to have been mineralised. The ammonite is Sphenodiscus sp. in aragonite from the Maastrichtian stage of the Late Cretaceous (Fig. 21); and the opalised belemnites (Neohibolites sp.) are about 100 million years old, from the Albian epoch of the Early Cretaceous (Fig. 22).
Rare gem/jewellery-type pieces and ornaments
From the collection of ‘minéraux et gemmes’, there are pieces like the ‘Grand Diamant Bleu de Louis XIV’ (Fig. 23) and others. In 1668, Louis XIV purchased an exceptional light blue diamond from India. In 1749, this fabulous gem was set on the insignia of Louis XV’s Golden Fleece, but in 1792, this jewel was stolen and disappeared forever.
However, as a new development in 2007, a historic lead cast of this blue diamond was identified at the Museum. Scanning of this cast proved that the diamond was recut around 1812 to create the Hope diamond, currently housed in the United States. The three successive versions of this gem have been recreated in blue zirconia.
There are also some fine examples of ornamental vases (Fig. 24).
These remind you that minerals are not purely scientific. They also have art, cultural and historic value, with these often smaller, rare gem pieces being highly prized.
Fluorite, azurite and vivid-colour mineral displays
Fluorite can be blue, orange, white, purple or green, but azurite remains blue. Over geological time, the processes that create minerals often rely on basic minerals, but when they’re this colourful, they become aesthetic highlights as well.
The labels often include chemical formulas, so if you like little details, examine those as well.
The thematic alcoves
It’s not just ‘pretty rocks – the gallery has eight thematic alcoves dealing with aspects of mineralogy (how species are differentiated, crystal structure etc). This is where you get to see how scientists think about minerals, and their structure and classification. In fact, if you’re into the science side, slow down here and look at the explanatory panels, as they can be very informative.
Historical intrigue (old ‘royal’ collections and medicinal minerals)
As stated above, the collections originated in part with the royal ‘droguier du roi’ under Louis XIII, where minerals were thought to have medicinal virtues. This reminds you that minerals have had cultural, scientific, medicinal and mythological roles, and not just geological ones. Therefore, if you spot any display mentioning ‘droguier’ or ‘pharmaceutique’ or ‘royal’, take a moment – that’s the link to the origins of the collection.
‘Fluorite Laurent’
The ‘Laurent’ fluorite is an exceptionally large, high-quality specimen of red fluorite with smoky quartz from the Chamonix area of France. Discovered by Christophe Peray in 2006, it was named in honour of his friend Laurent Chatel. The specimen is notable for its size, its red octahedral fluorite crystals up to 6cm on edge, and the smoky quartz it is associated with. It is also the first mineral specimen to be classified as a French National Treasure.
It was acquired in 2010, which shows that the collection is still evolving with new acquisitions and new ‘stars’.
Nuggets and gold-rush pieces
One of the descriptions mentions ‘une authentique pépite de la ruée vers l’or’ (a genuine gold rush gem). This bridges geology with human history (that is, mining and gold rushes), thus providing a different lens through which to view the minerals (Fig. 30).
Overall verdict and final thoughts
I thoroughly recommend the Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie, especially, if you have an interest in geology, minerals, crystals and meteorites. It offers a rare chance to see spectacular specimens in a beautiful historic setting. It’s not a full-day museum outing (unless you pair it with other galleries at the Muséum), but it has strong ‘wow’ factor (giant crystals, meteorites etc) and a strong dose of heritage.
Go earlier in the day (to avoid crowding), allowing at least an hour (maybe 90 mins if you like to linger), and consider combining it with a walk in the adjacent Jardin des Plantes or the nearby galleries of the Muséum. Bring time and curiosity – it’s the kind of place where a single display can stop you in your tracks.
Because you’ll probably want to prioritise, I suggest starting with the giant crystals(in the section near the centre) and then working through the thematic alcoves so you don’t miss the ‘why’ behind what you’re seeing. But make time for the ‘gems and jewellery’ side and the ‘big geology’ side. Both are present and give different senses of value.
If you’re there with less time, pick three to five specimens from the above list and linger at each, rather than rushing through everything. The museum is certainly worth a visit, so I would add it to your list of things to do when visiting the French capital.
| Address 36 rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, 75005, Paris. |
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